The British Museum

Our second day in London started with The British Museum.

The Reading Room; in 1897 it became one of the first public spaces in London to have electric lighting. 

The Rosetta Stone. It was initially a stele created in Egypt to record a priestly decree issued on March 27th, 196 BC. It was found by French army officer Pierre-François Bouchard in July of 1799. The stone contained the same text in three languages: ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs, Demotic script, and Ancient Greek. At the time it was found, no one was able to read Egyptian hieroglyphics - but the other two languages were known. This broken piece of stone became the key to deciphering Egyptian Hieroglyphics. Just over 20 years after it was found, researchers were finally able to read ancient Egyptian. This is such an important piece of history and something I had always wanted to see in person.

A close up of the stone with a reflection of the crowd of onlookers in the glass.

The back of The Rosetta Stone.

The goddess Sekhmet, Egypt, about 1390-1352 BC.

Max admiring the Egyptian statues.

Detail from the Stela of Ity, Egypt, about 1951 BC.

Ity and his wife receive offerings from their two sons.

Detail of the Statue of Nenkhefetka, Egypt, 2686 - 2181 BC.

Remarkable how much paint remained visible.

Detail of Screen Slab of King Nectanebo I, Egypt, 664 - 332 BC.

The king shown kneeling and offering a loaf of bread.

Photo by Max McDougall.

Detail of the Colossal Guardian Lion, Assyrian, about 865 - 860 BC.

An excerpt from the description: “This fierce, 15-ton lion symbolized Ishtar, the Assyrian goddess or war, and guarded the entrance to her temple.”

Detail of the Kurkh Stela, Assyrian, about 852 BC.

A monument to King Shalmaneser III. The cuneiform inscription is a list of the king’s campaigns.

Detail of The Black Obelisk of Shalmaneser III, Assyrian, 858 - 824 BC.

Bronze Helmet of Corinthian Type, Greek, about 650 - 570 BC.

Plate showing a winged goddess with a Gorgon’s head wearing a split skirt and holding a bird in each hand, probably Rhodes, about 600 BC.

A detail from the Tomb of Kybernis, King of Xanthos, Lycia (south-west Turkey), about 480 BC.

The north side of the tomb depicting a siren carrying what may represent the soul of the deceased. This pose is echoed by the mother carrying her child in the background to the right.

A detail from the Tomb of Kybernis, King of Xanthos, Lycia (south-west Turkey), about 480 BC.

The west side of the tomb depicting three women.

Mirror supported by a woman holding a dove, Greek, about 470.

Bellerophon and Chimaera, Melos, about 450 BC.

The description reads: “Riding Pegasus, Bellerophon raises his sword over Chimaera. The beast takes the form of a lioness with a snake for a tail, and a goat emerging from the back. Such plaques as this were used to decorate wooden chests.”

Guardian Sphinxes, Lycia (south-west Turkey), about 460 BC.

Max walking up to The Nereid Monument.

The Nereid Monument, Lycia (south-west Turkey), about 380 BC.

The Elgin Marbles, under the direction of sculptor and architect Phidias, Greek, 5th century BC.

The Elgin Marbles, a collection of Ancient Greek sculptures from the Acropolis of Athens. Gorgeous even in their damaged state. This collection, like many items in the British Museum, remains controversial due to the way it was taken from its country of origin.

A close up of a male deity, probably Dionysus, god of wine.

Such striking compositions, it must have been incredible to see them when they were finished at the Acropolis.

Marble portrait of an unidentified Hellenistic ruler, Roman copy of the 2nd century AD from a lost Hellenistic original, probably of the 2nd century BC.

Gold oak wreath with a bee and two cicadas, Dardanelles (north-west Turkey), 350-300 BC.

Marble portrait of Alexander the Great, possibly Alexandria, 2nd - 1st century BC.
In the background: Portrait of a victorious poet, Hellenistic, about 150-50 BC.

King Ramesses II, Egypt, 1550 - 1069 BC.

Sarcophagus of Hapmen, Egypt, 664 - 525 BC.

I loved the way the beams of light were shining on this sarcophagus.

Temple relief of King Osorkon II, Egypt, 1069 - 664 BC.

King Osorkon II with his wife, Queen Karoma.

Sarcophagus lid, provenance unknown, 343 - 332 BC. 

The description reads: “The male figure wears a fringed Persian garb with a scarf over one shoulder. The owner lived during the second Persian occupation, also known as the 31st Dynasty. He was either a Persian official, perhaps the governor (satrap) himself, or an Egyptian who adopted Persian ways. The face was willfully destroyed, perhaps as soon as Alexander the Great had ended the harsh and hated Persian dominion.”

Detail of a wall, Assyrian, about 700 - 692 BC.

Part of a stone monument showing vases with an endless flow of water, Mesopotamia, about 2150 BC.

Inlay of two standing goats, Mesopotamia, around 2550 BC.

Reconstructed head of a Sumerian woman, Ur (Iraq), no date listed.

The Standard of Ur - “War” panel, Iraq, about 2500 BC.

Another amazing piece I had seen in history books numerous times as a kid. It is referred to as a standard (a way of carrying colors or banners), but its actual purpose is not known. It is a box beautifully decorated on both sides with mosaics inlaid with lapis lazuli, shell, and limestone.

School tablet with proverb, location and date not listed.

Bird omens, location and date not listed.

The description reads: “These are omens drawn from the appearance and behavior of birds.”

The Royal Game of Ur, Iraq, 2600 - 2300 BC.

An early example of a popular game played through out the ancient Near East for over 3,000 years. To see an entertaining video about how the game is played, please visit https://youtu.be/WZskjLq040I?si=L2fpZT9dzPDKzvI2

Queen of the Night, Iraq, about 1750 BC.

Memorial Stone, Iraq, about 900 - 800 BC.

An excerpt from the description: “Set up by a son to honor his father. They are depicted together. Their shaven heads show that both were priests; the son, as was common, has adopted his father’s profession.” 

The Babylonian map of the world, Iraq, 700 - 500 BC.

I was thrilled to see this fascinating and unique clay tablet in person! I had come across a delightful video that explains the story of this piece. To see that video, please click https://youtu.be/LUxFzh8r384?si=C1qWanLifThaynFF

Page from an Old Nubian book written on parchment, Qasr Ibrim (Egypt), 9th - 10th century AD.

An excerpt from the description: “The extract preserved here describes the crowning and equipping of the Archangel Michael, whose name is written in red ink.”

Gebelein Man, Egypt, 3500 BC.

The body of a man who died over 5,500 years ago, before Egypt was a unified country. At the time of his death he would have been about 18-25 years old. He was stabbed in the back and buried in a shallow grave. He was naturally mummified by the sand and dry climate.

On the right: Heart Scarab of King Sobekemsaf I or II, Egypt, about 1600 BC.
On the left: Gold Ring naming King Antef VI, Egypt, about 1600 BC.

On the right, a heart scarab made of green jasper. They were placed on the chest to ensure a safe passage into the afterlife. The inscription on the back is an early version of Spell 30B of the Book of the Dead, intended to prevent the heart from testifying against its owner. On the left, a gold ring with a scarab beetle made of lapis lazuli. This was for the burial of Antef’s wife, Queen Sobekemsaf. 

Some figures from The Lewis Chessman, Scandinavia, about 1150 - 1200.

Part of the famous Lewis Chessman set, a remarkable collection of walrus ivory chess pieces from almost a thousand years ago. 

The Sutton Hoo Helmet, Anglo-Saxon, Late 500 - early 600 AD.

This beautiful helmet was painstakingly reconstructed from the broken state in which it was found. It is just one of four complete helmets that survive from Anglo-Saxon England.

The reconstruction on the Sutton Hoo Helmet created in the 1970’s. To watch a fascinating video that talks about the detail and symbolism of the helmet, please visit: https://youtu.be/zYk0GH5iFYI?si=86mzw8FdJsBuf1lz

Shoulder-clasps, Anglo-Saxon, Late 500’s - early 600’s AD.

Beautifully ornate shoulder-clasps. The intricate details and advanced cloisonné technique of having garnet inlaid over gold speaks to the extraordinary craftsmanship that went into making this object.

Purse-lid, Anglo-Saxon, Early 600 AD.

Ceremonial Axe, Sudan, 1800 - 1900.

The Great Torc, English, Buried around 100 BC.

Gold Lunula, Irish, About 2400 - 2000 BC.

Max and I decided to take a break and enjoy some afternoon tea in the museum cafe. 

The Carthage Treasure: Parure of Jewelry, Tunisia, 300 - 400 AD. 

This remarkable set of jewelry, made with emeralds, sapphires, and pearls, looks surprisingly timeless. 

The Lothair Crystal, Carolingian, 855 - 869 AD.
The copper-gilt mount was added in the late 1400’s.

The description reads: “This engraved rock crystal was probably made for the Carolingian King Lothair II (855 - 869 AD) and is an example of the spectacular wealth and art of the Carolingian Empire. Its engravings tell the Biblical story of Susanna and the Elders, in which Susanna is accused of adultery before being found innocent by the prophet Daniel. Rock crystal was a very hard material that required great skill to work, making this object even more remarkable.”

A close up of the breathtaking detail and craftsmanship.

Carolingian Rock Crystal, French, 846 - 869 AD.

An excerpt from the description: “Engraved on the back is the Crucifixion of Christ, which appears magnified from the front due to the crystal’s domed shape. The metal frame and chain are modern additions.” 

Max with a large hanging cauldron.

Max with the plaster cast death mask of Napoleon Bonaparte, made just two days after his death by C. Francesco Antommarchi.

A dazzling array of diamond jewelry from across Europe throughout the 1800’s.

Diamond Oak-Leaf Tiara, English, made by Hunt & Roskell, About 1855.

Lady Granville’s Egyptian-style Beetle Jewelry, English, made by Phillips Brothers, 1884 - 1885. 

An excerpt from the description: “The lotus motifs recall ancient Egyptian ornamentation but the weevils (a type of beetle) are South American.”

Necklace and Earrings, made by Cartier London, 1954.

Flower Brooch, Italian, made by Bulgari, Late 1940’s.

Ceremonial Axes, India, 1700 - 1800’s.

One more look at The Rosetta Stone.

Double-Headed Serpent, Aztec, 15th - 16th centuries.

Lintel 24, Mayan, about 725 AD.

An excerpt from the description: “One of three lintels from Structure 23 at Yaxchilan, this scene depicts Lord Shield Jaguar and his principal wife Lady Xoc engaged in a bloodletting rite that took place on October 28th, 709 AD. The king stands on the left brandishing a flaming torch to illuminate the drama that is about to unfold. Kneeling in front of him wearing an exquisitely woven huipil (loose-fitting tunic), Lady Xoc pulls a thorn-lined rope through her tongue. The rope falls onto a woven basket holding blood-soaked strips of paper cloth.”

A lovely building across the street from the museum.

One of the iconic red phone booths.

We decided to ride the bus to our next destination, but accidentally got on a bus in the opposite direction. We still had a lovely ride and enjoyed our little detour.

The British Library 2026

Max got sent to London for a work conference and I was lucky enough to join him. This was Max’s first time in London. My first trip to London in 2019 was wonderful but very brief. We were both delighted to explore the city. 

Sunrise from the plane as we approached the United Kingdom.

Taking the train into the city.

Our first stop was The British Library.

Animals from the Thiruvananthapuram Zoo, Mike Massingham, 2001.

The first piece that caught my eye was actually a modern piece; a lovely sketchbook from Mike Massingham from his travels in southern India.

Glorification of the Goddess, Gujarat, India, 1639-1640.

An excerpt from the description: “This illustration shows Devi riding on her mount, the tiger, as they fight the buffalo-demon Mahishasura.” 

The Tale of Jaya Lengkara, Yogyakarta, Java, 1803.

A mesmerizing illustration full of extraordinary detail.

West African Qur’an, probably Nigerian, early 20th century.

The Duke of Sussex’s Portuguese Pentateuch, Lisbon, Portugal, 1480-1490.

An excerpt from the description: “Pentateuch is the Greek word for ‘five books’ and refers to the first part of the Hebrew Bible - the Torah or Five Books of Moses”. The book is written in a beautiful semi-cursive Sephardic script.

Octateuch and Four Gospels, Ethiopia, 17th century. 

The illustrations from this book were strikingly bold.

Henry VIII’s copy of the ‘Great Bible’, London, 1540.

Old Testament in Dutch, Utrecht (present-day Netherlands), around 1431.

Magna Carta, 1225.

An excerpt from the description: “In 1225 King Henry III issued what became the final and definitive version of the Magna Carta. This copy, sent to Wiltshire in 1225, was preserved at Lacock Abbey until the 1940’s. During World War II it was carefully buried under a floor at Lacock.”

The Zoroastrian religious code, Yazd, Iran, 1647.

Codex Sinaiticus, possibly Palestine, around the middle of the 4th century.

The description reads: “Codex Sinaiticus is a priceless treasure. It is the earliest surviving manuscript containing the complete New Testament and is the oldest and best witness for some of the books of the Greek version of the Old Testament. It was copied from other manuscripts around the middle of the 4th century, possibly in Palestine. Its name (‘the book from Sinai’) refers to the location where it was kept until the middle of the 19th century, in the monastery of St. Catherine at the foot of Mount Sinai, Egypt.”

The Parc Abbey Bible, Leuven (present-day Belgium), 1148.

A close up of the beautifully detailed illustration and calligraphy.

Genealogical roll of English kings, England, late 13th century.

The genealogy of English kings from Ecgberht of Wessex (died 839) to Edward I (died 1307).

The supremacy of Henry VIII over the Church, London, 1535.

The description reads: “This is the only known copy of a printed announcement issued by Henry VIII’s confessor John Longland, Bishop of Lincoln, proclaiming the King’s supremacy over the pope and the Roman Catholic Church. It is the earliest evidence of the bishops’ support for Henry VIII’s split from Rome. Broadsides like this were read out, handed out and pinned up in public places to make important information available to as many people as possible.”

Anne Boleyn and the Tyndale’s New Testament, Antwerp, 1534.

The description reads: “Anne Boleyn (d. 1536), Henry VIII’s second wife and mother of Elizabeth I, followed the ideas of the Protestant Reformers and owned a special copy of the 1534 edition of Tyndale’s New Testament, printed on vellum and decorated by hand. Although the King and the Church still regarded Tyndale’s translation as illegal, the Queen used it for her personal study of the Bible. Large numbers of copies of Tyndale’s New Testament continued to be printed, making reading or hearing his words possible for large numbers of people at all levels of society.”

The first authorized Bible in English, London, 1540.

A lavish illustration from The first authorized Bible in English.

Martin Luther’s German New Testament, Wittenberg, 1522.

An excerpt from the description: “In 1522, the Protestant Reformer Martin Luther (1483-1546) published his German translation of the New Testament in Wittenberg. About 3,000 - 5,000 copies were printed and distributed rapidly around the country, giving German people access to the text in their own language for the first time and changing their relationship with the Bible forever. The words and phrases Luther used reflected those of his time, but they entered the everyday German language and are still in use today.”

Proclamation of Emancipation, USA, around 1865.

A calligraphic portrait of the Emancipation Proclamation.

A close up of the extraordinary detail.

Paul’s sketches of John and George, Paul McCartney and Hunter Davies, Spring 1967.

An excerpt from the description: “Shown here is one of the notebooks of journalist Hunter Davies used while researching his biography of the Beatles. As part of his research, Hunter asked Paul McCartney to describe the appearance of John and George back in the late 1950’s. Paul borrowed Hunter’s notebook and drew these sketches.”

Francesca Caccini, La Liberazione di Ruggiero dall’lsola d’Alcina, 1625. 

An excerpt from the description: “Caccini was a prolific composer and singer based mostly in Florence, where she served the Medici court. La Liberazione di Ruggiero (The Liberation of Ruggiero) is the earliest known opera composed by a woman, and the only known surviving opera by Caccini.”

William Shakespeare, First Folio, 1623.

An excerpt from the description: “The First Folio is the earliest published collection of Shakespears’s plays. Without it, 18 of them might have been lost forever. The plays were brought together by Shakespeare’s fellow actors John Heminges and Henry Condell, and the First Folio was published by a group of London printers.”

Leonardo de Vinci, Sketch of an insect and studies of ballistics, around 1495-1497 and 1504.

This is a detail of a sketch made by Leonardo da Vinci featuring a range of subjects. I found the bottom right corner with the drawing a little bug particularly charming. The description even indicated that “a randomly sketch beetle is identifiable as female, because Leonardo drew its abdomen swollen with eggs”.

Arabic mathematics and new methods of computation, Iran, 1589.

An excerpt from the description: “This handbook of cutting-edge mathematics is emblematic of the work of Arabic-speaking scholars which served as the building blocks of computing.”

A 2,000 year old homework book, Egypt, 2nd century AD.

Two wax tablets from a homework book.

Wynflæd’s will, England, 11th century (copied from an older original).

The description reads: “This is one of the oldest wills of an English woman. Wynfæd lived in southern England in the 900s. She drew up her will as a widow, leaving her lands and possessions - including her clothes, bed-linen, and a tapestry - to her relatives and the nuns of Shaftesbury, Dorset, and Wilton, Wiltshire. Wynflæd, bequeathed her ‘books and other small things’ to Æthelflæd, who was perhaps her daughter. The will demonstrates that Wynflæd was a literate woman who understood the power of the written word.”

The interior of the library with a sculpture of William Shakespeare by Louis Roubiliac. 

A view into the British Library Piazza and the Newton Monument by Eduardo Paolozzi.

Our first dinner in London was at Emilia’s Crafted Pasta. We started with a plate of cured Italian meats and some bread drizzled with olive oil.

Max got the basil pesto with grated parmesan and I got the truffled cacio e pepe with rocket salad. Everything was fresh and delicious! 

A lovely corner on the walk back to our hotel.

My Hugo Spritz at the rooftop bar at our hotel.

The beautiful London skyline just after sunset.

Artemis II Launch

I got an interesting view of the Artemis II launch.

Nasturtium

 A lovely plant in Rochelle’s garden.

Memories In Blood

Researching my family tree has been a journey, particularly when it comes to my father’s side. There has been a lot of estrangement and people who died young. For the longest time we only had fragments and vague clues. Being able to devote time to building out the family tree has uncovered a few surprising details.

For the longest time my father did not know the name of his paternal grandfather, a man who died before my father was even born. We found that his paternal grandfather was named Matthew. Matthew is also my father’s middle name. It was hidden in plain sight all these years. 

My father also has a lifelong passion for baking. For the longest time it seemed like an isolated interest that my dad enjoyed. In researching his mother’s branch of the family tree, I found three generations of people with the last name Semmler, which was an occupational name for a baker. Maybe baking is in the blood after all.

My father and I also love the mountains. Our DNA has strong hits in mountainous regions in south Poland. I have always enjoyed colder weather. Having been raised in Florida I assumed I craved the exotic. Mountains and cold weather deeply contrasted the flat, swampy state I grew up in. Now I see that our love of mountains calls back to places that our ancestors made home.

I remember as a kid we had computer disc that had lots of educational programs on it. There was a section of the disc that had a few sample phrase is each language. I would spend hours going through all the languages, clicking on the phases and getting to hear the words spoken by native speakers. There were so many interesting languages, but I remember being particularly fond of the Slavic languages. Looking back I wonder if there was some recognition of a language that would have been so familiar just a few short generations ago. 

In my quest to gather documents I received my father’s birth certificate. As I unfolded the paper I found another piece of information about my grandmother; one I had been hoping to come across. She died in 1960, when my father was only twelve years old. Her middle name had been a mystery for years. It was Helen. I was stunned when I finally saw it in print. 

I joined the SCA back in 2018 to start fencing. Within the group, everyone chooses a persona and a name from roughly the medieval period. I chose the name Hélèna, not knowing until now that it had been my grandmother’s middle name. 

It’s little things like uncovering the connection to the name Helen, or making dinner from one of her handwritten recipe cards. These make me feel like I have a connection to someone who passed before I was born, who I would have very much loved to know. 

I’ve always wondered if my great-great-grandfather marveled at the sunsets as he crossed the Atlantic to get to America, or if my great-grandmother liked the song birds better in her new home or if she missed the familiar birds she heard growing up. I wonder if my affinity for rescuing cats came from my grandfather, who always seemed to look out for the neighborhood strays.

And then I think of this website. A collection of thoughts, opinions, insights and observations. All stitched through person experience and artistic expression. I catalog all these things out of love and a desire to create, but on some level I wonder if I create so there are still pieces of me left to find. So no one has to wonder who I was.

Dad’s Homemade Sourdough Bread

My dad has always been a good cook, but one of my favorite things he makes is sourdough bread. He’s had the starter since I can remember. This beautiful loaf was cooling on the counter when I came home for a visit. 

Epic Fury

As with many times in recent years, I find myself glued to the news. Stomach in knots, tears welling, tense shoulders. 

Furious. 

I remember learning about World War I and II in school. Shocked by the excessive cruelty, but optimistic that I got to grow up long after they were over. I was a senior in high school during 9-11. I watched as many of my classmates eagerly enlisted. Everyone spoke of fighting for freedom. Some came home broken, some never came back at all. I had a horrible realization then that the wars were still waging on. 

Now, years later, we are at war again. This time, they have entirely dropped the premise that this is about freedom. Amidst the unshakable stain of the Epstein files, Trump has chosen to lash out once again. The predictability of his evil still can't take the shock away. 

Tehran was a beautiful city full of people who just wanted to live their lives. The historic Golestan Palace was destroyed. 168 school girls were killed. Innocent children. 

They called it Operation Epic Fury. 

I am furious because I could see how willfully incompetent he was when he was a reality T.V. personality. I knew it was going to be bad when he went into office the first time. I knew a second time was going to be destructive in new and horrific ways. I am furious at everyone who gleefully voted for him and furious that this brazen corruption has gone on for far too long. I am furious that new damaging information comes out everyday and he still isn't in prison.  

I remember learning about World War I and II in school. Never thinking that I'd get to watch horrors unfold live everyday. That's why they are working so hard to censor all the social media sites. It makes it easier to control the narrative. 

I wanted a peaceful life. One where I could make art, raise a family, and live in happiness. I'm in a country without healthcare, stuck between inflation and stagnant wages. Watching my rights and the rights of marginalized communities get stripped away. Watching innocent people on the other side of the world lose everything. Too many people have paid the price for this horrible man and his administration. 

I am furious. 

I can't wait until the pedophile class crumbles to dust.