Trafalgar Square and The National Gallery

After visiting Westminster Abbey we walked over to Trafalgar Square.

Nelson’s Column, built to commemorate the achievements of British Royal Navy Officer Horatio Nelson. 

Max and I in front of one of the four bronze Barbary lions.

Photo by Max McDougall.

Looking back towards Big Ben.

Initially, we had no plans to see The National Gallery on this visit, but once we were standing in front of it we simply couldn’t resist. We only had about an hour and a half to explore before it closed for the day. We may have only seen a fraction of what was inside, but what we got to see was incredible.

A Man and a Woman, Robert Campin, about 1435.

The two portraits were made as a pair and likely depicts a married couple, although the sitter’s identities are not known. 

An excerpt from the description reads: “Campin, playfully emphasized the differences between them. The women’s luminous skin contrasts with the man’s sallow complexion, her peaceful expression with his weariness, her beaming youth with his age.”

The artist was so detailed and precise it almost looks more like a photograph than a painting. You can even see the tiny pins at the top of her head holding the linen headdress in place.

Erasmus, Hans Holbein the Younger, 1523.

Hans Holbein was a renowned court painter for Henry VIII. Through his incredible skills, the Tudor Court comes to life. He portrays the influential scholar Erasmus with astonishing detail.

The fur trim on his coat is made with tiny strokes and an entire range of hues to make the texture look soft and dimensional.

The Arnolfini Portrait, Jan van Eyck, 1434.

I’ve seen this painting in many art history books over the years. It depicts a married couple shown in their bedchamber surrounded by symbols of wealth and fertility. One of the most recognizable, complex, and intriguing paintings in Western Art.

But standing in front of this painting was so much more personal than I thought it would be. My favorite art teacher was Kevin Grass. I had the privilege of being one of his students when I was at the Clearwater campus of St. Petersburg College in about 2002-2004. Watching him draw and seeing his finished pieces was like witnessing one of the old masters come back to life. He was a phenomenal teacher and I felt lucky to have learned from him. He passed away unexpectedly in February of 2025. It was heartbreaking to hear the news. 

I remember that he loved Jan van Eyck, and he even made a painting inspired by The Arnolfini Portrait years ago.

Deen Marriage Portrait, Kevin Grass, early 1990’s.

Kevin’s wife Michaela posted the picture of the painting after his death and explained that the painting was done in exchange for an eye surgery. Although that exact space does not exist, all items and furniture were actual objects from the Deen’s home. The dog belonged to Michaela and was named Jasper.

It was a honor to see a beautiful work of art that inspired him so much. To see more of Kevin Grass’s artwork, please visit: https://www.kevingrass.art/original-paintings

Diptych: Two Electors of Saxony, Lucas Cranach the Elder, 1509.

While diptychs of couples were common, this one actually portrays a father and son. On the left is Johann the Steadfast (1468-1532) and on the right is his six year old heir Johann Friedrich the Magnanimous (1503-1554). They are also portrayed with alternating black and green color schemes.

Just out of curiosity, I found a picture online of Johann Friedrich as an adult. It is interesting to see how much he ended up looking like his father.

A Sparrowhawk, Jacobo de’ Barbari, 1510’s.

The Coronation of the Virgin, Bernardo Daddi, 1340-1345.

A close up look shows the intricate details, including the distinctive patterns in each halo.

The San Pier Maggiore Altarpiece, Jacopo di Cione and workshop, 1370-1371.

An excerpt from the description reads: “This monumental altarpiece is one of the largest commissioned in Italy during the 14th century.”

A detail of the bottom right corner of the alterpiece.

The Virgin and Child with Saint Dominic and Saint Aurea, and Patriarchs and Prophets, Duccio, 1312-1315.

Saint Catherine of Alexandria, Raphael, about 1507.

Detail of The Agony in the Garden, Probably by Lo Spagna, about 1500-1505.

This close up of the painting shows three disciples who are supposed to be watching over Jesus while he prays to be spared from the sacrifice of his crucifixion. They sleep while soldiers approach from both sides.

Two Panels from a Triptych, Hans Memling, about 1480.

An excerpt from the description reads: “Memling frequently painted John the Baptist (left), but this is the only time he depicted Saint Lawrence (right). The saint was not widely venerated in the Netherlands during the 15th century. His inclusion indicates the bespoke nature of the commission.”

Two Panels from a Triptych, Hans Memling, about 1480.

The back of the panels shows a scene with nine cranes as the sun rises, with the coat of arms of the Pagagnotti family. 

The Burlington House Cartoon, Leonardo da Vinci, about 1506-1508.

An excerpt from the description reads: “The term cartoon comes from the Italian cartone, meaning a large sheet of paper. A cartoon is a full sized drawing usually made in preparation for a painting or tapestry.”

A detail of The Wilton Diptych, artist unknown, about 1395-1399.

This diptych was made for the private devotion of King Richard II (1367-1400) and shows the young king kneeling on the right as he is introduced to the Virgin and Child by John the Baptist and the traditional patron saints of England; Edward the Confessor and Edmund the Martyr.

The lavish detail in the robes and background speak volumes about the craftsmanship of the artist who is unfortunately not known.

The Dream of Saint Helena, Paolo Veronese, about 1570.

The painting depicts Saint Helena (about 248-328), Roman Empress and mother of Constantine the Great, having a dream about finding the cross on which Christ was crucified. She did make a journey to the Holy Land and is believed to have brought pieces of the original cross with her.

Christina of Denmark, Duchess of Milan, Hans Holbein the Younger, 1538.

I audibly gasped when I saw this painting in person. Another masterpiece by Hans Holbein, and one I had seen many times before in history books. The painting is almost life sized and very striking. Holbein had gone to paint Christina (1521-1590) at the request of Henry VIII, who was looking for his fourth wife after Jane Seymour had died. Christina was sixteen years old at the time and dressed in black as she was mourning the death of her husband Francesco Il Sforza. The marriage negotiations failed but the painting was kept by Henry VIII until his death.

The Ambassadors, Hans Holbein the Younger, 1533.

Perhaps Holbein’s most unusual painting, The Ambassadors, is full of symbolism but remains mysterious. The painting depicts French diplomats Jean de Dinteville (1504-1555) and Georges de Selve (1508-1541) during their mission in England as Henry VII was breaking with the Church of Rome. The two men are surrounded by scientific and musical instruments, some of which are broken or set up incorrectly. The painting also includes an anamorphic skull across the bottom, which can only be viewed properly from certain angles.

Portrait of a Lady (‘La Dama in Rosso’), Giovanni Battista Moroni, about 1556-1560.

This painting may depict the noble woman Lucia Albani Avogadro, who was a celebrated poet at the time.

Her luminous dress was painted with exceptional skill.

The Tailor (‘Il Tagliapanni’), Giovanni Battista Moroni, 1565-1570.

The sitter appears to be a prosperous tailor, but his identity is not known. The artist still portrays him with confidence and dignity.

The artist even painted the chalk lines on the fabric indicating the tailor carefully planned his work. 

Portrait of a Lady (‘La Schiavona’), Titian, about 1510-1512.

An excerpt from the description reads: “This is unusually direct for a European portrait of a woman of this date. The unknown sitter looks toward us with a steady gaze that conveys calm self-possession. She stands behind a stone parapet on which is carved a profile relief, recalling ancient cameos, that seem to replicate her features.”

Bacchus and Ariadne, Titian, 1520-1523.

I remembered this painting from my art history books as well, mostly for its vibrant color and dynamic movement. The painting is full of life as your eyes bounce around the energetic composition.

An excerpt from the description reads: “Abandoned on the Greek island of Naxos by her lover Theseus, a distraught Ariadne is surprised by Bacchus, god of wine, and his troop of rowdy revellers. As Bacchus leaps from his chariot, they fall in love at first sight. He promises to immortalize Ariadne as the constellation Corona Borealis, seen as a circle of stars in the sky.”

Westminster Abbey

Our sixth day in London started with the famous Westminster Abbey. With a history that goes back for a thousand years, it has been the site of numerous royal coronations and weddings as well as the final resting place of kings, queens, writers, musicians, politicians, scientists and other important figures from history.

The church as we know it today began construction in the year 1245; the first large building was commissioned by King Edward the Confessor in 1042. It is such an incredible monument to the history of London. It was something I wanted to see on my first trip back in 2019, but we didn’t have time. Getting to see it with another history lover felt magical.

The tombstone of a member of the clergy.

The tomb of Sir Robert Thomas Wilson (1777-1849) and his wife Jemina (1777-1823). He was a British army officer and politician. Their thirteen children are depicted at the bottom. 

The grave of Sir Isaac Newton (1643-1727).

The High Alter.

The evocative monument to Algernon Coote, Earl of Mountrath (died 1744) and his wife Diana (died 1766). Designed by Sir William Chambers and made by Joseph Wilton. It depicts Diana rising from her tomb being greeted by an angel. The angel is pointing upwards towards Algernon (who was removed in 1876) who had an open seat waiting for his wife. Part of the Latin inscription reads “Thus, love unites in the tomb - even after death - those whom it happily united in life”.

Tomb of King Edward I, also known as “Longshanks” (1239-1307).

The Tomb of King Henry III (1207-1272).

A close up of the remaining intricate mosaic work.

The Tomb of Eleanor of Castile (1244-1290), the beloved first wife of King Edward I. 

The Tomb of Sir Giles Daubeney (1452-1508) and his wife Elizabeth (dates unknown). They were both well known figures in the courts of several kings throughout the Wars of the Roses. Sir Giles was a soldier and diplomat who ultimately shifted his support from Richard III to Henry Tudor. He fought at Battle of Bosworth Field, where Henry Tudor won his crown and became King Henry VII.

The Tomb of Sir John Puckering (1544-1596), a lawyer and politician during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I. His widow Jane (died 1611) is shown by his side, however, she remarried after his death and is buried at a different location.

The Tomb of Sir Thomas Bromley (1530-1587), a lawyer and politician during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I. He presided over the trial of Mary, Queen of Scots.  

The Tomb of King Henry V (1387-1422). 

A wall plaque honoring Anne Neville (1456-1485), younger daughter of Richard Neville “The King-Maker” and wife of Richard III.

The Tomb of William de Valence (died 1296). A soldier and half brother of Henry III. The cushion under his head is still vibrant with beautifully patterned enamel. You can still see the chainmail pattern on his armor. Although damaged, the coronet on his head looks like it would have held ornamental stones.

A detail from the tomb of Richard Pecksall (died 1571), showing his four daughters.

The tomb of Frances Brandon (1517-1559). She is the elder daughter of Charles Brandon and Mary Tudor (sister of Henry VIII). She is the mother of Lady Jane Grey, the “Nine Days Queen”.

The Tomb of Sir George Villiers (1544-1606) and his wife Mary (1570-1632).

Getting in line to see the tomb of Queen Elizabeth I (1533-1603). 

The beautiful roses that surround her tomb.

The breathtaking Lady Chapel.

The RAF Chapel, dedicated to the men of the Royal Air Force who died in the Battle of Britain during World War II.

The Tomb of King Henry VII (1457-1509) and Queen Elizabeth of York (1466-1503). Their marriage ended the Wars of the Roses and began the Tudor reign.

The tomb of Arthur Penrhyn Stanley (1815-1881). He was the Victorian Dean of Westminster. 

Max (on the left) admiring the beautiful details.

The tomb of Geoffrey Chaucer (died 1400). Considered to be the father of English Literature, he is most famous for writing The Canterbury Tales.

Memorial statue for William Shakespeare (1564-1616). The world famous playwright is buried at Holy Trinity Church in Warwickshire but he is honored at Westminster Abbey.

The tomb of Mary, Queen of Scots (1542-1587).

The tomb of Lady Margaret Beaufort (1443-1509). The mother of Henry VII, grandmother of Henry VIII, great grandmother of Elizabeth I. One of the incredible survivors of the Wars of the Roses and a personal favorite historical figure of mine. She was married at the age of twelve, then became a widow and mother at the age of thirteen. She only had one child, likely due to the difficult pregnancy and childbirth at such a young age, but she was devoted to her son. 

During the Wars of the Roses, her son (thirteen years old at the time) was taken to mainland Europe by his uncle for his safety. She would not see him again until he was twenty seven. Power changed hands numerous times and Margaret was always maneuvering to get her son back safely and restore the lands he inherited. She communicated in secret with the former Queen Elizabeth Woodville through their mutual physician. She was caught in a scheme to dethrone Richard III in the Buckingham’s Rebellion in 1483 and was stripped of her lands and titles. She was imprisoned in her home. Disgraced and against all odds, she remained in communication with her son and continued to support him. 

Her son did return to England and won the Battle of Bosworth Field. He became King Henry VII. Their fortunes changed dramatically again - this time for their great benefit. Margaret spent the rest of her life assisting her son in strengthening his reign. She would ultimately outlive her son, but only by two months. Some of her last acts were to help organize her son’s funeral and the coronation of her grandson, King Henry VIII, before passing away on June 29th, 1509 at the age of 66.

On her tomb, she is depicted with her hands folded in prayer. Not idealized, but rough and wrinkled with age. She worked very hard for her family and is remembered for her remarkable intellect and tireless devotion. 

The Cloister Garth.

One of the oldest parts of Westminster Abbey, the Chapter House, was built approximately 1246-1255. Much of the original stained glass was damaged during World War II, some glass was salvaged and reused.

Some of the intricate medieval tile pavement.

Some of the walls still have the original medieval paintings depicting scenes from the bible.

The Pyx Chamber, even older than the Chapter House, was built in about 1070. 

Another view of the Cloister Garth.

An old tomb built into the floor and heavily worn down with the passage of time.

The Little Cloister.

The beautiful College Garden.

Max (on the left) taking pictures of the birds in the grass.

Max stopping to pet a sweet little cat.

The Coronation Chair, used for coronation ceremonies since 1309.

Portrait of King Richard II from the mid 1390’s.

After leaving Westminster Abbey we got some coffee and snacks and walked back.

Big Ben and the Elizabeth Tower.

Boadicea and Her Daughters, by Thomas Thornycroft.